Have you ever had that one technique or fabric that just intimidated you or maybe you had a bad experience and ever since you’ve avoided it like the plague? Well for me it was hemming stretchy jersey knit fabrics and now I can proudly say that I have conquered my fear! Yay!
Have you ever noticed when you’re sewing knit fabric that it some times gets caught up in your machine or when you’re all done sewing it doesn’t lay flat and it looks kind of wavy? Well I’m going to share with you four things I did/used to combat this issue.
Materials Needed for Hemming:
- Pins (ball point for knit fabric if you have them)
- Even Feed/Walking Foot
- Twin Needle
When you are ready to begin hemming, after you have either serged or zig zag stitched the rare edges, you will need to fold the hemming and pin it in place. Now in the case of my skirt, yes it took me, what it felt like, forever to pin this never ending circle skirt all the way around. But I did it anyway because this is a necessary step. Also, keep in mind that the stretchier the fabric, the closer the pins should be placed, to ensure that you are able to achieve that flat, nice looking hem.
After you have all your pins in place you will need to iron your hem. This will help achieve that flat, even, clean look and is so helpful when its time for sewing, so do not skip this step.
Even Feed/Walking Foot
Now lets get to the sewing. Sewing stretchy knit fabric can be a pain in the neck. Especially when the machine starts to eat it and it gets all caught up under the needle. I combat this little pesky issue by using an even feed/walking foot. This little baby is my new BFF. I used it all the time! The walking foot is so helpful because it adds less pressure to the fabric and helps move it through the machine with less stretching. I bought mines from Amazon and it was cool because it came with a kit that including a double needle!
And finally we come to the twin needle. I love this needle because combined with the pinning, ironing, and use of the walking foot, the twin needle gives that polished professional look to your finished garment. You will find that the twin needle comes in different sizes and there is even one that’s called a Stretch Twin Needle. I used the one that came in the kit which was a regular one, size 4.0.
Using a twin needle will require two threads at the top and some machines (like mine) only has room for one. To fix that I just wound some thread in a bobbin and loaded it through like I would normally do when threading my machine.
Be sure to use a regular stitch. Also, you will need to top stitch when sewing with this needle because the bobbin side make the zig zag stitch on the bottom. Also, be sure you know where your fabric ends underneath to make sure the needle is catching right and is not skipping over some of the fabric.
Here is what my finished hem looked like after I was done sewing. Keep in mind that before I hemmed I had finished the rare edges using my serger. But technically, what happens is the twin needle gives you the even double stitch on the top and a zig zag stitch underneath.
Here you can see how the hem is laying nicely, with a neat, clean flow of the fabric at the bottom. I love how it makes my hand made garments have that professional finish!!
I hope you find this information helpful!! To see how I had this dress click here.